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September 2018

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Highlighting the Symbolic Meaning of Peony with the Fleurisanne Carving Process

The elegant peony not only blooms on the dial, but also in the movement, so that the peony flower and its symbolic meaning are fully exerted. In Asia, peony represents the prosperity of wealth, but also symbolizes a happy marriage, and because of its medicinal value, it means the blessing of good health. Peony spring blossoms, so it is also used to describe the beauty of women. The craftsmen commissioned by Chopard followed the guidance of these symbolic meanings and carefully carved the peony on the 18K rose gold movement splint in a skillful manner.

Chopard is proud of the Fleurisanne carving process that can be used in the Fleuriye region

In order to give the L.U.C. XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony a lifelike peony pattern and imagery, it takes two weeks of work to engrave the movement. The feature of this embossing technique is to sculpt the material around the pattern and retain the pattern that you want to present. The vortex peony petals and leaf patterns are engraved on the remaining surface. Then, they are carved one by one in the surrounding recesses to create a grainy appearance. After the engraving process is completed, the movement is then chrome-plated to create an elegant and rare two-color movement.

Chopard LUC XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony watch is designed with 18K rose gold case, 35 mm diameter, hand-finished Fleurisannes craft engraving – peony decorative pattern and gold dial with black peony pattern, which is very exquisite and personalized. And it adopts with the most characteristic paper-cutting technology in Swiss Pays d’Enhaut region, the time-division display, LUC 96.23-L self-winding movement, 65-hour power reserve, 30-meter waterproof and anti-glare sapphire crystal matching well with the black brushed fabric (glossy) strap, this Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony 18K Rose Gold Diamonds Limited Edition Wristwatch 131944-5003 will meet your demands of pursuing fashion and stylish.

Therefore, each manufacturing step of the L.U.C. watch is completed entirely at the Geneva and Fleury production sites within the brand. From movement development, finished product design, casting gold, case stamping and finishing, movement components, metal bracelets, polishing, assembly, diamond setting, tuning to quality control, Chopard is fully capable of mastering all the watchmaking process by itself.

Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony 18K Rose Gold Limited Edition Wristwatch

Reference: 131944-5003

Case Material: 18K Rose Gold

Case Diameter: 35MM

Case Thickness: 7.70MM

Strap: Black Brushed Glossy Fabric Strap

Buckle: Pin Buckle

Movement: Self-winding L.U.C 96.23-L1 Mechanical Movement

Power Reserve: Approximately 65 Hours

Water Resistance: 30 Metres

The new LUC XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony watch has all the procedures that are so exclusive. The movement, which is equipped with the outstanding movement LUC 96.23-L, proves that it is equipped with Twin patented technology. The coaxial double barrel gives power reserve for up to 65 hours. Putting such a self-winding mechanical movement into an ultra-thin case with a thickness of only 7.70 mm is a veritable technological innovation. And this is entirely thanks to the savvy construction of the micro-rotor. This miniature oscillating weight can be seen through the transparent bottom. This fascinating floral rose gold watch is limited to 8 models.

This is a precious and extraordinary annual covenant, and it almost becomes a consistent ceremony. Every year, Chopard regularly introduces a unique interpretation of the peony flower for the L.U.C XP watch collection. This flowery, fragrant, symbolic and loved flower from ancient times finds space on the L.U.C. XP series 35mm watch.

In addition to the exquisite and delicate decoration of the watch with the fleurisanne carving process, Chopard Watch Factory added a similarly delicate craftsmanship to the new year: the new work of paper-cutting art. Although it is a two-pronged options, it has a consistent goal: to reflect the peony flower that is strong, graceful, and fleeting.

The Chopard watch factory is located in a quiet little valley of Fleuriye. In the spring, the valley is full of wildflowers, so Fryrier is famous (Fleurier is translated as “Fleurier”, but the root of the words means “flower”). A long time ago, this town gave birth to many traditional watchmaking techniques, and its exquisite craftsmanship was famous in China in the 19th century. Based on the long-standing relationship between Fleurier and China, so whether on the surface or in the heart of the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony watch, the representative flower peony of China is blooming.

 

The L.U.C. Esprit de Fleurier Peony watch continues the craft floral watch that has been launched in the L.U.C. Esprit de Fleurier collection since 2015. It re-uses the elements of the collection, using its light and smooth lines, and retaining its timeless immortality. However, Chopard has boldly combined two different techniques this year to bring together two top-end high-end skills.

2017 Chopard L.U.C. Esprit de Fleurier Peony Watch

Peony’s Fleeting Beauty

Peony is a kind of rich flower with a national color and a fascinating but declining in the blink of an eye. The flowering period of the peony lasts only a short period of two weeks, and as long as it is hit by the wind and rain, the time when people can enjoy their gorgeous flowers is even shorter. Chopard chose to use the paper-cutting process to show the king of this delicate and noble flower.

The master of paper-cutting craftsmanship cuts out the delicate peony pattern, and the yin and yang alternately reveal the three-dimensional petals

The finished peony petal pattern was then pasted onto the large open flame enamel enamel dial

Chopard subtly blends the art of the East and the West, displaying the patterned stylized peony on the new L.U.C. XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony watch, which highlights the art of the contrast between “virtual and real”. The peony flower carved out of black paper is gracefully displayed on the white dial made of enamel. The bezel, the lugs, and the side edges of the middle layer of the case are inlaid with delicate and exquisite diamonds, not only bringing out the elegant silhouette of the dial, but complementing the peony by the precious diamonds.

In addition to the peony flower of the paper-cut art, the Chopard movement engraver carefully carved the peony on the 18K rose gold movement splint in a skillful manner

Believe that many of watch fans remembered the big event – Quartz Crisis in last century. Even although it’s Swiss watchmakers that began to research quartz movements, most of them suffered terribly in the 1970s to 1980s. As a result, Japanese Quartz watches occupied a big place in the watchmaking field in that time, on the other hand, Swiss mechanical watchmaking lost its first place globally. Longines set about researching and manufacturing Quartz watches from 1954. It’s in 1984 that Longines launched the first Conquest V.H.P. quartz wristwatches. “V.H.P.” refers to “Very High Precision”. Exactly, yearly error for +/-10s proved that it was the most accurate timepiece then. Longines Conquest V.H.P. has revived since Baselworld 2017. The new generation enhanced a lot, like yearly error for +/-5s. The high accuracy owed to the temperature compensation quartz movement ETA developed for Longines. To 2018, Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting gave a surprise.

Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting was unveiled at Roman landmark, Lanterna di Fuksas on September 9, 2018. Guests of honor from all over the world came there to see the unveiling ceremony on that day. Following Longines Conquest V.H.P. and Conquest V.H.P. Chronograph, Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is the new faces of the Collection. Mr. Walter von Kaenel and Mr. Juan Carlos Capelli (Global President and Global Vice President of Longines) attended the ceremony. Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is a travel-theme model, whose excellent performance and new features stand out.

Presenting the breakthrough innovations, Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting provides more convenient user experience for travelling lovers. The model is fitted with the second time zone and Flash Setting. Wearers may set the travel time by adjusting the crown manually or Flash Setting. What’s the “Flash Setting”? Flash Setting is a quick setting. You needn’t pull and dial the crown, and just pair the specified application with your smart phone. Without Wifi or Blue teeth, send the command the Flash collects data from the application to the micro hole at 12 O’clock. Flash Setting is a feature. Wherever you are, you can gasp the home time and the travel time. A slim hand with a red arrow tells the second time zone.

Like the former two generations, Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is fitted with the exclusive quality quartz movement ETA developed for Longines. Yearly error for ±5s is an echo of Very High Precision. Gear Position Detection will reset the hands in case of suffering shock or magnetism. The Quartz movement extends up to four years. Displayers for E.O.L. and E.O.E. will send signal when power reserve runs out. The date displays precisely until 2399 without adjustment.

Four wristwatches are available, and they are separately Ref.L3.728.4.76.6 (all steel), Ref.L3.718.2.66.6 (all PVD steel), Ref.L3.728.4.96.9 (steel case with blue rubber band) and Ref.L3.718.4.56.9 (steel case with black rubber band). Which will you choose?

Since 1988, Chopard has been the official timekeeper for the Mille Miglia event. To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the partnership with Mille Miglia, the Geneva watchmaker Chopard launched a new grigio sporty style watch, the Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio Speciale Wristwatch 168566-3007, to witness the brand’s enthusiasm of antique racing.

This sleek and stylish watch has a grigio look and belongs to the Mille Miglia GTS collection, which is launched by Chopard in 2015. The collection is inspired by the Italian legendary antique car race that has been officially timed since 1988. Its elegant aesthetic design and outstanding technical performance make it an exclusive top timepiece.

The case is made of titanium, with 43mm x 11.4mm size, it is designed with an anti-glare coated sapphire crystal. The titanium bezel is decorated with black aluminum inserts and sparkling numbers. DLC black steel screw-in crown is embossed steering wheel pattern. The back of the watch is engraved with the words “Brescia > Roma > Brescia” with colored mirrors, red washers and PVD screws. The water resistance is 100 meters.

Grigio rhodium-plated dial is designed with white transfer scale and matte black Arabic numerals. The date display window and the pointer power reserve display are located at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively. Arabic numerals, hour markers, and black hourly hands are coated with SuperLuminova fluorescent material to ensure clear reading even in dark environments. The central seconds hand with red tip is strikingly eye-catching.

Ferrari red, grey and black details, as well as oversized digital time scales reminiscent of the 1950s car dashboard, the new Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio Speciale watch is a symbol of cherishing the spirit of the antique car race for Chopard brand.

Equipped with Swiss-made Chopard Caliber 01.08-C self-winding movement with 40 jewels, and its vibration frequency is about 28,800 times / hour (4 Hz), which is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It is equipped with hollow oscillating weight, and the full string can provide up to 60 hours of power reserve. It has hours and minutes, date and power storage display function.

This watch features a black matte Cordura strap with a shot-finished stainless steel folding clasp, and it is limited to 1,000 pieces.

The watch lovers who are also interested in sports can collect one as personal investment, since its deep and dark sporty style is mysterious and mature enough to meet your demands. And the cordura strap is very comfortable to wear, what’s more, it is easy to clean up and maintain.

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio Speciale Wristwatch 168566-3007

Reference: 168566-3007

Price: £6,640.00

Diameter: 43MM

Thickness: 11.4MM

Case Material: Titanium

Crown Material: Stainless Steel

Strap: Black Matt Cordura®

Buckle: Stainless Steel Folding Clasp

Movement: Self-winding Chopard 01.08-C Movement

Power Reserve: 60 Hours

Water Resistance: 100 Metres

Limited Edition: 1000

There is a saying in the jewelry industry that diamonds are long-lasting. In the watchmaking industry, it is no exaggeration to say that metal chain bracelets (mainly gold, stainless steel, titanium and platinum) enjoy a similar reputation. But this is not completely accurate. In recent years, rubber straps have continued to develop, and high added value has made it catch up with metal chain bracelets. Rubber is becoming an increasingly valuable material in terms of strength, durability, creativity, performance, and even development costs.

In the watchmaking world, no one can deny Biwi’s central role in the gradual transformation of rubber. This family company in Glovelier, Switzerland, has earned the respect of well-known brands in the industry. It seems that prudence is one of its key attributes. The main brands supplied by Biwi are unknown, but for a long time, RICHARD MILLE has established a fruitful partnership with the company, which includes a transparent rubber strap that has been developed over two years.

Richard Mille Wristwatches With Rubber Strap

Rubber straps can achieve such high visibility and technical achievements mainly for two reasons: one is plasticity and the other is “melting”. Plasticity includes shape, material and color, as well as antibacterial and deodorant treatments. Everything, or almost everything, is possible. The “melting” also contains unlimited possibilities. For example, the Hysek Kilada 41mm stainless steel automatic chronograph inserts the “H” insert in the rubber strap to pay tribute to the brand logo. The “H” inserts vary in material, steel, titanium or gold, depending on the model.

Hysek Kilada 4MM Stainless Steel Automatic Chronograph Rubber Strap Watch

Another major feature of rubber is its close connection to automotive tires, and this applies to almost all watchmaking brands seeking inspiration from the automotive world. In this regard, Chopard is a pioneer in the industry, the most representative example is the strap with the same contour as the Dunlop tires of the 1960s. At the time, Dunlop tires were considered the best tires on the market, and the tires of Karl Scheufele (the father of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele) chose this type of tire. In 1995, Chopard decided to recreate the era with the Mille Miglia collection.

Chopard Mille Miglia Race Edition Rubber Strap Wristwatch

Two years later, another Geneva manufacturer, Patek Philippe, put this idea into practice, and the brand specially designed the famous “Tropical” strap for the Aquanaut series watch. The development of such straps took more than a year, and multiple steps were required in manufacturing, using a variety of machines, including 150-ton presses.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Tropical Strap Watch

The latest example of the integration of tires and straps comes from Roger Dubuis. As part of the collaboration, Roger Dubuis manufactures straps from Pirelli’s assembled racing tires. In this very unique collection, each watch corresponds to the seven famous color schemes of Pirelli. There is even an Excalibur Spider Pirelli Sottozero in the collection with a titanium stud in the rubber strap, echoing Pirelli’s famous snow tires.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Sottozero Rubber Strap With Titanium Studs Wristwatch

Rubber straps are growing rapidly, but given the novelty, there is still much room for exploration. One possibility is to add fluorescent materials; another is to make a fuss about strength and thickness to develop a robust rubber strap that is as robust as an ultra-thin watch. For example, the RICHARD MILLE strap can withstand 20 kg of traction.

 

Richard Mille Wristwatches With Rubber Strap

Eberhard & Co. Scafograf GMT “The Black Sheep” Rubber Strap Wristwatch

Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive Rubber Strap Watch 3203-500LE-3/93

In the end, there is no doubt that the bracelet will follow another major trend: customization. We can look forward to seeing some of the colors that are not yet found in the brand’s popular palette (specifically, depending on customer needs), with more or less special materials (Santa Barth’s sand, Havana’s cigar leaves, UAE’s Crude oil), as well as shapes that have never been seen before (such as rubber cuffs). The prospects are very broad, but the production of temporary rubber straps is still in the hands of subcontractors. Increasing correlations may change the status, and we may see related mergers and acquisitions in the future.

2018 will comes to end. Longines is going to its 187th birthday. Longines has created many classic watches in the long history of watchmaking. At present, the deposit of culture has been the selling point and the theme of Longines Heritage Collection. Looking back to watchmaking tradition and taking inspiration from it, Longines constantly adds new members combining vintage features with modern elements to the collection. Here, the leading role is Longines Heritage Chronograph L2.775.4.23.3, a 180th anniversary watch, whose stunning feature is the red “12”.

The Red “12”
Longines Heritage L2.775.4.23.3 is inspired by Longines Antique Pocket Watches. In that era when pocket watches were popular, the design was classed as two types: the crown located at 12 O’clock, and the crown set at 3 O’clock. To make readability stand out, the “12” hour marker was marked with the striking red. During the transition period from pocket watches to wristwatches, most wristwatches were finished with welded lugs on round cases. As a result, the derived locations of crowns became more, and the red “12” played an important role in the layout of dials. The demands for wristwatches with the red “12” or “XII” on the dial increased. With the development of wristwatches, the design for the crown located at 3 O’clock became the main stream. The red “12” or “XII” went away gradually. Besides the iconic red “12”, Longines Heritage Chronograph L2.775.4.23.3 has some other vintage features.

Vintage Features
First, Longines in squiggles under the red “12” stands out, starting in 1920. Some of watch fans thought it’s better to add a sand clock with wings under the brand name, but the design wasn’t used in the beginning. The only “Longines ” in squiggles echoes to the earlier background better. Second, blued-steel hands and indexes. Blued-steel handed look more attractive on the white lacquer dial, featuring abrasion resistance and rust protection. Last, the most recognizable design is the mono pusher.

Mono Pusher
The world’s first chronograph wristwatch was made in 1915, featuring the mono pusher chronograph. To 1923, the double-pusher chronograph watch was born. The mono pusher manages “Start and Reset”, and for the double pushers, one is the “Start/Pause” pusher, and the other is the “Reset” pusher. Today, tool watches are popular more, so the mono pusher chronograph watch is the best choice. First, press the pusher once, the timing starts. Then, press it again, the second hand will go back to the original position. It means the mono pusher can’t manage “Pause”. Third, the button with three functions will accelerate the inner steel components wear. In a word, mono pusher chronograph is inferior to the dual pusher chronograph. But in today’s society, a wristwatch is like a decoration not a tool or timepiece. The rarer, the more popular.

Longines L788
Longines Heritage L2.775.4.23.3 is equipped with L788 on basis of ETA7750. Watches by Longines come with movements by ETA SA, but ETA produces mainly main-stream movements, so Longines entrusted ETA SA to modify a mono pusher chronograph movement according to ETA 7750 in 2009. From cam to column wheel, from dual pusher chronograph to mono pusher chronograph, L788 became better and better. The blue-coated column wheel is visual through sapphire back.

Longines Watchmaking Tradition has a long history and reflects excellence, and Longines has launched a lot of outstanding chronograph watches since the 19th century. It has been well known for elegance all over the world. Under the influence of Swiss long watchmaking history, Longines shows bold and innovative spirit on watchmaking technology and styles, thus it takes a place in the global watchmaking market. Among the Watchmaking Tradition Collection, the Master Collection embodies the elegant essence of Longines brand fully, popular with global watch fans, especially the Asian region. Longines Master Collection has reflected profound, exquisite watchmaking skills and experience of the brand since it was released formally in 2005. Today, Longines has been a branch of Swatch Group for Middle Class. Most watch fans know more about models with basic functions, but in fact, Longines complicated wristwatches are excellent, like Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moonphase L2.739.4.71.3.

Longines Master Retrograde Moonphase L2.739.4.71.3 features elegant look, four retrograde functions and understated luxury. Some of Swiss top watchmakers have produced complicated wristwatches, but the price is quite expensive. It’s impossible for Middle Class or elites to buy a retrograde moonphase complicated wristwatch by a top watch brand. Reference L2.739.4.71.3 is the most trustworthy of complicated wristwatches with similar functions. It not only meets watch fans’ demands for complicated wristwatches but improves the brand image. Let’s appreciate refined details and good performance.

Exterior Details
That we like a wristwatch starts with its watch case and dial details. Reference L2.739.4.71.3 has a 44mm-diameter watch case polished through mirror-effect process. Against the background, dial details stand out. The white grainy dial is worth being appreciated for long, vintage and delicate. There are 5 functions display on it except hours-minutes, the long rainbow-shaped date window at 3 O’clock, the long rainbow-shaped second time zone aperture at 9 O’clock, the fan-shaped small seconds at 6 O’clock, the fan-shaped day window at 12 O’clock and the eye-shaped day/night display in the day window. A small dial holds six functions, and the balanced, reasonable layout is worth being praised. For fear of bad readability, all scales are black and all hands are blue. The design for sapphire back allows users to appreciate the automatic movement. To carry elegance through to the end, 44mm case is equipped with brown alligator-skin bracelet.

Functions And Performance
From the clear layout on the white dial, we can get to quickly know its functions. Due to rainbow-shaped arc windows and fan-shaped apertures, four blue hands will retrograde to the origin when they arrive the final number. Although retrograde is not a difficult skill, a retrograde wristwatch is quite expensive. In fact, Longines Master L2.739.4.71.3 sells for under 5,000 dollars. Most think in-house movements are better than those by ETA or Sellita, but it’s not absolute. Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moonphase watch is equipped with L707.2 on basis of ETA2892. L707.2 supplies the watch with 48-hour power reserve, not a chronometer by COSC. Its precision and reliability is inferior to the top retrograde wristwatch. 30-meter water resistance just provides daily protection, a little weak. Frankly speaking, Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moonphase L2.739.4.71.3 is not a perfect timepiece, but from the price, it is luxurious.