Archive

September 2018

Browsing

Believe that many of watch fans remembered the big event – Quartz Crisis in last century. Even although it’s Swiss watchmakers that began to research quartz movements, most of them suffered terribly in the 1970s to 1980s. As a result, Japanese Quartz watches occupied a big place in the watchmaking field in that time, on the other hand, Swiss mechanical watchmaking lost its first place globally. Longines set about researching and manufacturing Quartz watches from 1954. It’s in 1984 that Longines launched the first Conquest V.H.P. quartz wristwatches. “V.H.P.” refers to “Very High Precision”. Exactly, yearly error for +/-10s proved that it was the most accurate timepiece then. Longines Conquest V.H.P. has revived since Baselworld 2017. The new generation enhanced a lot, like yearly error for +/-5s. The high accuracy owed to the temperature compensation quartz movement ETA developed for Longines. To 2018, Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting gave a surprise.

Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting was unveiled at Roman landmark, Lanterna di Fuksas on September 9, 2018. Guests of honor from all over the world came there to see the unveiling ceremony on that day. Following Longines Conquest V.H.P. and Conquest V.H.P. Chronograph, Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is the new faces of the Collection. Mr. Walter von Kaenel and Mr. Juan Carlos Capelli (Global President and Global Vice President of Longines) attended the ceremony. Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is a travel-theme model, whose excellent performance and new features stand out.

Presenting the breakthrough innovations, Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting provides more convenient user experience for travelling lovers. The model is fitted with the second time zone and Flash Setting. Wearers may set the travel time by adjusting the crown manually or Flash Setting. What’s the “Flash Setting”? Flash Setting is a quick setting. You needn’t pull and dial the crown, and just pair the specified application with your smart phone. Without Wifi or Blue teeth, send the command the Flash collects data from the application to the micro hole at 12 O’clock. Flash Setting is a feature. Wherever you are, you can gasp the home time and the travel time. A slim hand with a red arrow tells the second time zone.

Like the former two generations, Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is fitted with the exclusive quality quartz movement ETA developed for Longines. Yearly error for ±5s is an echo of Very High Precision. Gear Position Detection will reset the hands in case of suffering shock or magnetism. The Quartz movement extends up to four years. Displayers for E.O.L. and E.O.E. will send signal when power reserve runs out. The date displays precisely until 2399 without adjustment.

Four wristwatches are available, and they are separately Ref.L3.728.4.76.6 (all steel), Ref.L3.718.2.66.6 (all PVD steel), Ref.L3.728.4.96.9 (steel case with blue rubber band) and Ref.L3.718.4.56.9 (steel case with black rubber band). Which will you choose?

If there is a watch that combines time with the perpetual calendar and moon phase function, which reflects the elegant feeling and not complicated experience, it must be a Baume&Mercier Clifton Series watch—M0A10306.

The classic rose gold case is round bringing together traditional craftsmanship and modern style. Uniquely shaped lugs and the double beveled design of side are inspired by the delicate lines of an antique watch at that time. Equipped with the automatic mechanical movement, the watch can provide a long-lasting power for the owner. The 18K red gold case and crocodile leather strap are both classic and elegant, showing the essential features of high-end watches, and reflecting the strong urban style and retro charm. Today, I will introduce people to the Baume&Mercier Clifton Series Perpetual Calendar watch.

The watch has a white dial that contrasts well with the rose gold trims. And there is no extra decoration on the dial other than the function display. The watch has almost 4 function panels at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock, and 12 o’clock: date display, moon phase display, week display, and month display window. The four small dials are neatly arranged for easy reading. And the blue steel hands also make the calendar function more prominent. Through the hollow case back of watch, people can see the trajectory of the Vaucher 5401 automatic movement, meeting the curiosity of consumers.

The curve between the case and the strap is beautiful and harmonious, and it is comfortable to wear. It is a classic chronograph watch that can stand the test of time.

The embedded crown with coin grain and fine polished buckle have a letter logo Φ of brand. Each of the finely crafted details reveals an unparalleled aesthetic. With a black alligator leather strap, the watch is comfortable to wear and more gentle.

Basic information
Movement type: automatic machinery
Movement thickness: 4.2 mm
Vibration frequency: 21600 oscillations per hour
Number of stones: 29
Power reserve: 48 hours
Exterior
Dial diameter: 42 mm
Case thickness: 11.2 mm
Back: sapphire crystal case back
Waterproof depth: 50 meters
Material
Case: 18k rose gold, polished/satin finish
Dial / crown / clasp: 18k red gold
Hands: gold plated, special
Mirror: sapphire crystal glass
Strap: crocodile skin
Features
Date display, week display, month display, moon phase

Comments:
The Baume & Mercier Clifton Series perpetual calendar 18K rose gold complex wrist watch is a high-level complex craft in modern society. It combines the exquisite watchmaking craftsmanship and extraordinary creativity of Baume & Mercier. What’s more, this watch has an elegant appearance and a modern sense of style, which can bring out personal charm. Since the watch is limited, it is important to seize the opportunity and not to regret it.

In the field of watchmaking, the innovation of movement is also the replacement of watch. The advent of a new movement is always able to quickly attract the attention of consumers and become the focus among the watches. Such as the Baume & Mercier watch.

Baumatic™ BM12-1975A self-made movement was first assembled on the new Creton series of brand. Although there is no gorgeous and luxurious appearance, its extraordinary performance, as well as simple and elegant temperament are impressive.

The upgrade of simple and modern belong to Baume & Mercier
In terms of appearance, the new Creton series Baumatic™ watch has been upgraded accordingly. In addition to the elegant style of the classic watch, more fine grinding, showing the more full and soft feeling to the case. White ceramic dial makes the new Clifton Baumatic™ watch is clearly differentiated from the previous model, giving the wearer a unique sense of quality.

Details display
40mm diameter stainless steel case with polished front and brushed sides is unique. Engraved with the logo pattern of the celebrity watch, the stainless steel crown is located on one side of the watch that is surrounded by a non-slip texture to make adjustment easier.

The curvature of rounded case extends to the lugs. Slightly curved lugs with ergonomically setting allows the watch to fit the wrist well.

The texture of white ceramic dial is gentle. And intuitive with rivet-type thin markers and the sword needle offer a clear view to the customers. There is a calendar display window at 3 o’clock, adding a practical function to the simple dial.

Through the hollow design back cover, the appearance of the new movement will come to the fore, revealing the mechanical charm hidden inside the watch. As the first self-produced movement, the Baumatic™ BM12-1975A has outstanding features both in terms of technology and appearance. Under the unique polishing pattern, this movement has obvious difference with others, which guarantees the recognition and quality of the movement. It also has a power reserve of 120 hours (almost 5 days), and the watch can still maintain precise travel time after five days of placement, which is also a great convenience.

The blue strap highlights the style and elegance of the watch. Crocodile leather is decorated with the same color stitching providing a more comfortable experience and a unique overall enjoyment. The traditional stainless steel buckle is convenient for wearing and it is full of security.

Summary:
Compared to the same level of watches, the new Baume & Mercier Creston Baumatic™ watch offers significant advantages both in terms of performance and price. More significant, coupled with a simple, elegant appearance, it can also be formal and casual that is a better wrist choice this year.

2018 will comes to end. Longines is going to its 187th birthday. Longines has created many classic watches in the long history of watchmaking. At present, the deposit of culture has been the selling point and the theme of Longines Heritage Collection. Looking back to watchmaking tradition and taking inspiration from it, Longines constantly adds new members combining vintage features with modern elements to the collection. Here, the leading role is Longines Heritage Chronograph L2.775.4.23.3, a 180th anniversary watch, whose stunning feature is the red “12”.

The Red “12”
Longines Heritage L2.775.4.23.3 is inspired by Longines Antique Pocket Watches. In that era when pocket watches were popular, the design was classed as two types: the crown located at 12 O’clock, and the crown set at 3 O’clock. To make readability stand out, the “12” hour marker was marked with the striking red. During the transition period from pocket watches to wristwatches, most wristwatches were finished with welded lugs on round cases. As a result, the derived locations of crowns became more, and the red “12” played an important role in the layout of dials. The demands for wristwatches with the red “12” or “XII” on the dial increased. With the development of wristwatches, the design for the crown located at 3 O’clock became the main stream. The red “12” or “XII” went away gradually. Besides the iconic red “12”, Longines Heritage Chronograph L2.775.4.23.3 has some other vintage features.

Vintage Features
First, Longines in squiggles under the red “12” stands out, starting in 1920. Some of watch fans thought it’s better to add a sand clock with wings under the brand name, but the design wasn’t used in the beginning. The only “Longines ” in squiggles echoes to the earlier background better. Second, blued-steel hands and indexes. Blued-steel handed look more attractive on the white lacquer dial, featuring abrasion resistance and rust protection. Last, the most recognizable design is the mono pusher.

Mono Pusher
The world’s first chronograph wristwatch was made in 1915, featuring the mono pusher chronograph. To 1923, the double-pusher chronograph watch was born. The mono pusher manages “Start and Reset”, and for the double pushers, one is the “Start/Pause” pusher, and the other is the “Reset” pusher. Today, tool watches are popular more, so the mono pusher chronograph watch is the best choice. First, press the pusher once, the timing starts. Then, press it again, the second hand will go back to the original position. It means the mono pusher can’t manage “Pause”. Third, the button with three functions will accelerate the inner steel components wear. In a word, mono pusher chronograph is inferior to the dual pusher chronograph. But in today’s society, a wristwatch is like a decoration not a tool or timepiece. The rarer, the more popular.

Longines L788
Longines Heritage L2.775.4.23.3 is equipped with L788 on basis of ETA7750. Watches by Longines come with movements by ETA SA, but ETA produces mainly main-stream movements, so Longines entrusted ETA SA to modify a mono pusher chronograph movement according to ETA 7750 in 2009. From cam to column wheel, from dual pusher chronograph to mono pusher chronograph, L788 became better and better. The blue-coated column wheel is visual through sapphire back.

Longines Watchmaking Tradition has a long history and reflects excellence, and Longines has launched a lot of outstanding chronograph watches since the 19th century. It has been well known for elegance all over the world. Under the influence of Swiss long watchmaking history, Longines shows bold and innovative spirit on watchmaking technology and styles, thus it takes a place in the global watchmaking market. Among the Watchmaking Tradition Collection, the Master Collection embodies the elegant essence of Longines brand fully, popular with global watch fans, especially the Asian region. Longines Master Collection has reflected profound, exquisite watchmaking skills and experience of the brand since it was released formally in 2005. Today, Longines has been a branch of Swatch Group for Middle Class. Most watch fans know more about models with basic functions, but in fact, Longines complicated wristwatches are excellent, like Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moonphase L2.739.4.71.3.

Longines Master Retrograde Moonphase L2.739.4.71.3 features elegant look, four retrograde functions and understated luxury. Some of Swiss top watchmakers have produced complicated wristwatches, but the price is quite expensive. It’s impossible for Middle Class or elites to buy a retrograde moonphase complicated wristwatch by a top watch brand. Reference L2.739.4.71.3 is the most trustworthy of complicated wristwatches with similar functions. It not only meets watch fans’ demands for complicated wristwatches but improves the brand image. Let’s appreciate refined details and good performance.

Exterior Details
That we like a wristwatch starts with its watch case and dial details. Reference L2.739.4.71.3 has a 44mm-diameter watch case polished through mirror-effect process. Against the background, dial details stand out. The white grainy dial is worth being appreciated for long, vintage and delicate. There are 5 functions display on it except hours-minutes, the long rainbow-shaped date window at 3 O’clock, the long rainbow-shaped second time zone aperture at 9 O’clock, the fan-shaped small seconds at 6 O’clock, the fan-shaped day window at 12 O’clock and the eye-shaped day/night display in the day window. A small dial holds six functions, and the balanced, reasonable layout is worth being praised. For fear of bad readability, all scales are black and all hands are blue. The design for sapphire back allows users to appreciate the automatic movement. To carry elegance through to the end, 44mm case is equipped with brown alligator-skin bracelet.

Functions And Performance
From the clear layout on the white dial, we can get to quickly know its functions. Due to rainbow-shaped arc windows and fan-shaped apertures, four blue hands will retrograde to the origin when they arrive the final number. Although retrograde is not a difficult skill, a retrograde wristwatch is quite expensive. In fact, Longines Master L2.739.4.71.3 sells for under 5,000 dollars. Most think in-house movements are better than those by ETA or Sellita, but it’s not absolute. Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moonphase watch is equipped with L707.2 on basis of ETA2892. L707.2 supplies the watch with 48-hour power reserve, not a chronometer by COSC. Its precision and reliability is inferior to the top retrograde wristwatch. 30-meter water resistance just provides daily protection, a little weak. Frankly speaking, Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moonphase L2.739.4.71.3 is not a perfect timepiece, but from the price, it is luxurious.